Five miles south of Fallingwater, tiny OHIOPYLE is the most convenient base from which to enjoy the wilds of Ohiopyle State Park or activities like whitewater rafting on the Youghiogheny River . The park fans out around the town and river, offering a maze of trails for hiking or biking, and natural delights such as Cucumber Falls and the unique habitat of the Ferncliff Peninsula , known for its wildflowers. At the built-up end of a massive steel and wooden footbridge high above the river, a small visitor center dispenses local information (daily 9am-5pm; tel 724/329-8591). Just beyond it the Ohiopyle House Café , 144 Grant St (tel 724/329-1122), serves up tasty dishes like lobster ravioli and caramel pudding, while a couple of seasonal canteens and a general store sell basic snacks and provisions. The Yough Plaza Motel on Sherman St (tel 1-800/992-7238; $50-75) has reasonable standard units; even better for budget travelers is the affiliated Ohiopyle Youth Hostel just north of the railway tracks at 113 Ferncliff Rd (tel 724/329-4476), with dorm beds from $15. If you want to camp or rent a cabin in the park itself, call the reservation service at 1-888/727-2757. For rafting , White Water Adventurers at 6 Negley St (tel 1-800/992-7238, ) is one of several outfits that rent equipment and give instruction.

Three miles southwest of Ohiopyle, there is another Frank Lloyd Wright house, Kentuck Knob (Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; $10, weekends $15), also known as the I.N. Hagan House. A hexagonal structure of fieldstone and cypress, it sits on a hilltop giving wonderful views of the surrounding countryside. Further down the Youghiogheny, in the village of Confluence , the cozy River's Edge Café (tel 814/395-5059) serves good food at moderate prices right on the banks of the river.